Forums > Technical Discussion > 1.6mm or 3.2mm kevlar wick?

Posted: 18th Aug 2008
hey pal,
coupla tips:

Volume vs surface area
In my experience i find that volume determines how much fuel is soaked and surface area affects burn time/intensity also (I believe that more surface area allows more contact with the air).

Staff wicking configs
In a staff/torch wicking scenario, you're still looking at 'tube-core' layout of wicking - in which case wick thickness will still give you a similar volume and surface area.

Durability
I encourage you to consider other factors, not just fuel absorbency - I find that a thinner wicking material will age more rapidly, as layers will tear and unravel with a thinner wicking roll.

Clearance
When designing your new wicks, please remember to keep in mind the clearance distance between your handles and the wicking as you increase the size of your flame.

Split Wicking
Also, for larger wick amounts, you have the option to split your wicking across two sets of tube cores, rather than a single large tube core on each end (where space allows). I find that single large wicks can become incoherent in shape, and a technical/graceful style is particularly emphasised by smaller, discrete flames across the equipment to draw attention to nuance of movement


good luck and let us know how u go!

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Posted: 20th Aug 2008
How the heck do you manage to have so many different avatars, Bender? Great info btw

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Posted: 20th Aug 2008
Also, if the tools you have do not include a power drill, consider the thinner wick wrapped more often around the core.

If you tape it on with paper masking tape, the thinner wick holds together better when drilling with a handrill, as there is more masking tape per mm of wick.

For a power drill, it doesn't matter as much, as long as the drill bit is sharp.


Another useful tip if you wear you wicks out a lot, is to put a second layer of wick o the outside, but still held in place with the same screws. when it starts to wear, remove the screws, then the outer layer of wick, and replace with a new layer.

You may need to fill the holes with a little sawdust and PVA to get the screws to bite again, but well worth the effort to extend the life of your toys.

Unless, like me, you tend to bend staffs before they wear out anyway...

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