Forums > Technical Discussion > Photographing Poi.
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8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
Posted:
Alright...now, just to set the right tone here, I'm NOT looking for information on how to photograph poi. (I can use the bulb setting on my SLR quite nicely *grin*) What I do want to know however, is what most people ARE using to shoot with. (Mostly out of curosity)I use either my Canon Eos 10s W 28-105mm USM or my new Nikon F100 with 24-120mm EDHas anyone tried using a stroboscopic flash system (read multiple flashes for a single exposure)? I might borrow an Nikon SB-28 from work, and see what I can do with that. Might be a bit more interesting that the usual "Can-only-see-fire" shots that seem to dominate now.
Alright...now, just to set the right tone here, I'm NOT looking for information on how to photograph poi. (I can use the bulb setting on my SLR quite nicely *grin*) What I do want to know however, is what most people ARE using to shoot with. (Mostly out of curosity)I use either my Canon Eos 10s W 28-105mm USM or my new Nikon F100 with 24-120mm EDHas anyone tried using a stroboscopic flash system (read multiple flashes for a single exposure)? I might borrow an Nikon SB-28 from work, and see what I can do with that. Might be a bit more interesting that the usual "Can-only-see-fire" shots that seem to dominate now.
BRONZE Member
Sporadically Prodigal
2,758 posts
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Sporadically Prodigal
2,758 posts
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posted:
the guy that does most of our fire pix uses a very fancy digital camera. He rarely uses the flash, but instead asks his subject to keep thier head still (and as much body as possible) for extended exposure. he has created some Wick[ed] Effect[s].https://doofpix0.tripod.com/doofpix_Firez/index.htmlhttps://wickeffect.cjb.net/
the guy that does most of our fire pix uses a very fancy digital camera. He rarely uses the flash, but instead asks his subject to keep thier head still (and as much body as possible) for extended exposure. he has created some Wick[ed] Effect[s].https://doofpix0.tripod.com/doofpix_Firez/index.htmlhttps://wickeffect.cjb.net/
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One Tyred Guy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
Posted:
REALLY GOOD QUESTION firefunk. And I'd be very interested in whatever you find. I, unfortunately, haven't tried photographing fire yet but certainly will in the near future. The only problem with a strobe effect is that you get the "hey look I have three bodies" effect which is cool only if that's what you're going for. I'm surprised I haven't seen different effects. You got me thinking now...
I'd also be interested in the "I took this at f-16 with 800 film and a flash at 1 second" type synopsis. But I never remember what the heck I was at.This is a good use of the board. Anyone else got any photo tips/ideas/experience?
REALLY GOOD QUESTION firefunk. And I'd be very interested in whatever you find. I, unfortunately, haven't tried photographing fire yet but certainly will in the near future. The only problem with a strobe effect is that you get the "hey look I have three bodies" effect which is cool only if that's what you're going for. I'm surprised I haven't seen different effects. You got me thinking now...
I'd also be interested in the "I took this at f-16 with 800 film and a flash at 1 second" type synopsis. But I never remember what the heck I was at.This is a good use of the board. Anyone else got any photo tips/ideas/experience? PK is a god.. i love the Peeekster.
.:PK:. [poiinthepark founder member]
Educate your self in the Hazards of Fire Breathing 
STAY SAFE! 
member
93 posts
Location: Oxford, UK
93 posts
Location: Oxford, UK
Posted:
Equipment used so far, let's see.My glowstick and big flame pictures in the HOP gallery were taken by a friend with an Olympus C3030z digital camera - it's a 3 megapixel job with ridiculously detailed control, basically tries to emulate a film-based SLR and does a ridiculously good job of it. A particular strength is its low-light performance. A particular snag is it's high-price performance ;-)Got a bonus a few weeks ago and went to buy a new digicam. Intended to get the Olympus but ended up with a Canon Digital Ixus V. It's a 2 megapix camera with a special superhero power to make movies at 20 frames/sec (very smooth). The movies are limited to 4MB, but because it compresses each frame on the fly, the less information in the scene, the longer the movie. At 320 * 240 resolution, daytime shots of trees gets you about 10 secs, but at night, with a pitch-black background and just a couple of whirling fireballs it seems to be good for about 30 secs of video. And the still pix are very nice too. Will be sending in a movie or two very soon (like as soon as I remember to bring the disk to work).For stills, I'd rate the Olympus very highly indeed. But for the movies, the £300 saving relative to the Olympus, and the fact that it's almost exactly the size of a cigarette packet, I couldn't resist the Ixus V.mikeyB
Equipment used so far, let's see.My glowstick and big flame pictures in the HOP gallery were taken by a friend with an Olympus C3030z digital camera - it's a 3 megapixel job with ridiculously detailed control, basically tries to emulate a film-based SLR and does a ridiculously good job of it. A particular strength is its low-light performance. A particular snag is it's high-price performance ;-)Got a bonus a few weeks ago and went to buy a new digicam. Intended to get the Olympus but ended up with a Canon Digital Ixus V. It's a 2 megapix camera with a special superhero power to make movies at 20 frames/sec (very smooth). The movies are limited to 4MB, but because it compresses each frame on the fly, the less information in the scene, the longer the movie. At 320 * 240 resolution, daytime shots of trees gets you about 10 secs, but at night, with a pitch-black background and just a couple of whirling fireballs it seems to be good for about 30 secs of video. And the still pix are very nice too. Will be sending in a movie or two very soon (like as soon as I remember to bring the disk to work).For stills, I'd rate the Olympus very highly indeed. But for the movies, the £300 saving relative to the Olympus, and the fact that it's almost exactly the size of a cigarette packet, I couldn't resist the Ixus V.mikeyB
member
442 posts
Location: Rochester, NY, USA
442 posts
Location: Rochester, NY, USA
Posted:
I'm using a Canon Digital Elph S100. It's a 2.1 megapix camera and does farely well. It has a problem with bright colors and tends to blend them. It actually works really well for fire in the day time. Putting it on it's fastest setting I've managed to get some nice shots during the night however.I've also found that flash all but ruins a good night-time fire pic.------------------"Except for that Mrs. Lincoln, How did you like the play?"Pyromorph - Let the fire change you[This message has been edited by Pele'sWhippingBoy (edited 08 August 2001).]
I'm using a Canon Digital Elph S100. It's a 2.1 megapix camera and does farely well. It has a problem with bright colors and tends to blend them. It actually works really well for fire in the day time. Putting it on it's fastest setting I've managed to get some nice shots during the night however.I've also found that flash all but ruins a good night-time fire pic.------------------"Except for that Mrs. Lincoln, How did you like the play?"Pyromorph - Let the fire change you[This message has been edited by Pele'sWhippingBoy (edited 08 August 2001).]
FYI: I am not Pele. If you wish to reply to me and use a short version of my name, use: PWB.
English? Who needs that? I'm never going to England. - Homer Jay Simpson
member
428 posts
Location: Mystic, Ct. USA
428 posts
Location: Mystic, Ct. USA
Posted:
my brother took some quite cool pictures using multiple exposures so there are more than one of me in the picture...hes got a nikon SLR something or other...that was a couple of years ago i dont know why he gave that up...we did a lot of experimenting, every fstop, different film, twilight vs. full dark etc (sunset pictures are cool) but i was the subject not the photographer so i will bug him to stop lurking I think the picture of me in the gallery came out pretty well, in that i am actually in focus which never happens with fire, and that was with no flash.anybody try different special effects lenses or filters? like a fisheye? someone should rent one sometime and try it.Pere
my brother took some quite cool pictures using multiple exposures so there are more than one of me in the picture...hes got a nikon SLR something or other...that was a couple of years ago i dont know why he gave that up...we did a lot of experimenting, every fstop, different film, twilight vs. full dark etc (sunset pictures are cool) but i was the subject not the photographer so i will bug him to stop lurking
I think the picture of me in the gallery came out pretty well, in that i am actually in focus which never happens with fire, and that was with no flash.anybody try different special effects lenses or filters? like a fisheye? someone should rent one sometime and try it.Pere poo-bah
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
Posted:
I've been shooting with a Nikon Coolpix 880, a 3 megapixel digicam. I've got pix at https://www.imagestation.com/members/adamrice
For shooting fire, I usually set it to no-flash, ASA 400, auto exposure. Sometimes I use the slow-synch flash, which can give a nice effect (I think it is equivalent to 2nd-curtain flash). Sometimes I tinker with the exposure compensation to "push" it and get shorter exposures. I've found that shooting firedancing is very unpredictable, and I have to shoot a lot of pictures to get any good ones--but sometimes I get something great. I'd say on a given night I get 10% good pictures, 30% lousy pictures, and 60% so-so pictures.A stroboscopic flash sounds like it would be really fun to play with--something that fired at 0.1-second intervals might be about right. But if I were shooting with film, I'd probably just use really fast film--ASA 800 or 1000--and dispense with the flash. Some fire performers find it a distraction, btw.Shooting close-ups is very hard, since people tend to be moving a lot, and you can't maintain a good focus lock on them (and since you are stopped all the way down, you can't rely on depth of field for a fudge-factor). Plus I have a cheap tripod that doesn't track well.
I've been shooting with a Nikon Coolpix 880, a 3 megapixel digicam. I've got pix at https://www.imagestation.com/members/adamrice
For shooting fire, I usually set it to no-flash, ASA 400, auto exposure. Sometimes I use the slow-synch flash, which can give a nice effect (I think it is equivalent to 2nd-curtain flash). Sometimes I tinker with the exposure compensation to "push" it and get shorter exposures. I've found that shooting firedancing is very unpredictable, and I have to shoot a lot of pictures to get any good ones--but sometimes I get something great. I'd say on a given night I get 10% good pictures, 30% lousy pictures, and 60% so-so pictures.A stroboscopic flash sounds like it would be really fun to play with--something that fired at 0.1-second intervals might be about right. But if I were shooting with film, I'd probably just use really fast film--ASA 800 or 1000--and dispense with the flash. Some fire performers find it a distraction, btw.Shooting close-ups is very hard, since people tend to be moving a lot, and you can't maintain a good focus lock on them (and since you are stopped all the way down, you can't rely on depth of field for a fudge-factor). Plus I have a cheap tripod that doesn't track well.
Laugh while you can, monkey-boy
member
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
Posted:
Wow...I actually got answers. Whocha.Mrmo_nyc: Yeah, I'd love for people to document their shots. That way we could waste less film as a whole, and more people could see the easier way to shoot. Who knows, it might even be a good idea to write a How-To for beginning photographers. MikeyB: Yeah, the Olympus C-3030z is a great camera. The C-3040z Is even nicer for low light photography, since it's got a f1.8 lens instead of the f2.8 that the C-3030z has. I can't see where you live from the reply screen, but I'm assuming England...The C-3040z over here is only 1200 CDN...which works out to around 800ish in pounds. Pele's Whipping Boy: I also really like the S100 (mostly because of the size) But, as you said, it's got a real problem with super bright lighting. The pixel wells seem to have poor bordering, so light spills over quite easily.Adamrice: 400 ASA only? That's pretty slow for nighttime action shots. As for moving to higher speeds, the only problem is that 800 is only a half stop faster than 400...You'd be better off moving to say a Fuji Reala 1600, then pushing it to a 3200 or even 6400 ASA. At 6400, you'd be a full two stops faster than your 400, and the grain shouldn't be TOO bad. And as for slow sync, FYI, all it does is combine a slower shutter speed with the flash. The flash is there to properly expose close subjects, and the low shutter speed is there to properly expose the naturally lit background.I'm going to try and use my 50mm f1.8 lens this week. I figure if I couple that with some push processed 6400 ASA film, I should be able to get some really neat shots. The fuji rep just stopped by, and let me borrow the Finepix 6800 (6Megapixel interpolated), so I'm going to have some fun with that tonight. If my poi's have arrived by the time I get home, I'll send in some shots of them! Anywho, keep the replies coming!
Wow...I actually got answers. Whocha.Mrmo_nyc: Yeah, I'd love for people to document their shots. That way we could waste less film as a whole, and more people could see the easier way to shoot. Who knows, it might even be a good idea to write a How-To for beginning photographers. MikeyB: Yeah, the Olympus C-3030z is a great camera. The C-3040z Is even nicer for low light photography, since it's got a f1.8 lens instead of the f2.8 that the C-3030z has. I can't see where you live from the reply screen, but I'm assuming England...The C-3040z over here is only 1200 CDN...which works out to around 800ish in pounds. Pele's Whipping Boy: I also really like the S100 (mostly because of the size) But, as you said, it's got a real problem with super bright lighting. The pixel wells seem to have poor bordering, so light spills over quite easily.Adamrice: 400 ASA only? That's pretty slow for nighttime action shots. As for moving to higher speeds, the only problem is that 800 is only a half stop faster than 400...You'd be better off moving to say a Fuji Reala 1600, then pushing it to a 3200 or even 6400 ASA. At 6400, you'd be a full two stops faster than your 400, and the grain shouldn't be TOO bad. And as for slow sync, FYI, all it does is combine a slower shutter speed with the flash. The flash is there to properly expose close subjects, and the low shutter speed is there to properly expose the naturally lit background.I'm going to try and use my 50mm f1.8 lens this week. I figure if I couple that with some push processed 6400 ASA film, I should be able to get some really neat shots. The fuji rep just stopped by, and let me borrow the Finepix 6800 (6Megapixel interpolated), so I'm going to have some fun with that tonight. If my poi's have arrived by the time I get home, I'll send in some shots of them! Anywho, keep the replies coming!
member
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
Posted:
Sorry Adamrice...I just reread your post, and actually registered the fact that you're using the Coolpix 880, so you CAN'T go any higher than 400Asa. Sorry mate.
Sorry Adamrice...I just reread your post, and actually registered the fact that you're using the Coolpix 880, so you CAN'T go any higher than 400Asa. Sorry mate.
poo-bah
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
Posted:
Firefunk: I know what slow-synch is. With a regular flash, you wind up "freezing" the fire-trails, which isn't very fun to look at. With the slow-synch, you get the fire-trails and *sometimes* you get a clearer picture of the person as well. That's one of the challenges of shooting firedancing: you want a slow-ish exposure to get the fire-trails (my seat-of-the-pants guess is that anything faster than 1/8 sec is too fast), but it's nice to actually capture the person too. Ideally, I think you'd want to use a bounced flash, too.Shooting with some ambient light is a plus, IMHO
Firefunk: I know what slow-synch is. With a regular flash, you wind up "freezing" the fire-trails, which isn't very fun to look at. With the slow-synch, you get the fire-trails and *sometimes* you get a clearer picture of the person as well. That's one of the challenges of shooting firedancing: you want a slow-ish exposure to get the fire-trails (my seat-of-the-pants guess is that anything faster than 1/8 sec is too fast), but it's nice to actually capture the person too. Ideally, I think you'd want to use a bounced flash, too.Shooting with some ambient light is a plus, IMHO
Laugh while you can, monkey-boy
SILVER Member
Are we there yet?
1,897 posts
Location: australia
Are we there yet?
1,897 posts
Location: australia
Posted:
Ok, from someone who has really only used disposable cameras
this thread is fantastic. I'm presently looking to buy a NON digital camera with manual focus to do close ups of bromeliads and possibly birds. BUT I also want to be able to use it to take fire pics. Any suggestions for a good model, that's not digital?
Ok, from someone who has really only used disposable cameras
this thread is fantastic. I'm presently looking to buy a NON digital camera with manual focus to do close ups of bromeliads and possibly birds. BUT I also want to be able to use it to take fire pics. Any suggestions for a good model, that's not digital? member
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
8 posts
Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
Posted:
Adamrice: Sorry mate, didn't mean to come across like that Ade: 
now you're getting into the "fun" stuff. If you're just looking to do basic photography, almost any camera system will work for you. Some people will swear by Canon (me) and others will swear by Nikon (Bah). If you're looking for generic specs for a camera, you want something with adjustable apature and shutter speed controls, and a good lens. For shooting closeups of flowers, you might want something with a macro lens. If I were you, I'd personally go used. YOu should be able to pick up a Canon AE-1 with a 50mm lens for around 250CDN. (That's like 150US) I've still got mine, and it's a wonderful camera.
Adamrice: Sorry mate, didn't mean to come across like that
Ade: now you're getting into the "fun" stuff. If you're just looking to do basic photography, almost any camera system will work for you. Some people will swear by Canon (me) and others will swear by Nikon (Bah). If you're looking for generic specs for a camera, you want something with adjustable apature and shutter speed controls, and a good lens. For shooting closeups of flowers, you might want something with a macro lens. If I were you, I'd personally go used. YOu should be able to pick up a Canon AE-1 with a 50mm lens for around 250CDN. (That's like 150US) I've still got mine, and it's a wonderful camera. member
428 posts
Location: Mystic, Ct. USA
428 posts
Location: Mystic, Ct. USA
Posted:
for birds, you start getting into a whole new world of stuff. beside the macro lens for your flowers you're going to start getting into various larger magnification lenses, fast moving subjects (unless you're taking pictures of ducks or something) and the like. Iassume you dont want "speck bird" pictures (as in, see look at this speck here, it's a new holland honeyeater...) among bird photographers there is a general like for cameras with a switch between auto-focus and a manual focus. the autofocus helps with flight pictures, manual for setting up a shot in a blind where you can focus on a particular spot you know a bird is going to land. There is a whole world of people talking about bird photography out there, so good luckalso, since ade is in sydney, I just remembered the field ornithologist club in sydney meets at the australian museum once a month...used to anyway, they occasionally had talks about photography of birds (and plants too) since a lot of their members are quite keen photographers. try Birds Australia too, sometimes they have photography workshops at Barren Grounds refuge (near wollongong)Pere[This message has been edited by Peregrine (edited 08 August 2001).]
for birds, you start getting into a whole new world of stuff. beside the macro lens for your flowers you're going to start getting into various larger magnification lenses, fast moving subjects (unless you're taking pictures of ducks or something) and the like. Iassume you dont want "speck bird" pictures (as in, see look at this speck here, it's a new holland honeyeater...) among bird photographers there is a general like for cameras with a switch between auto-focus and a manual focus. the autofocus helps with flight pictures, manual for setting up a shot in a blind where you can focus on a particular spot you know a bird is going to land. There is a whole world of people talking about bird photography out there, so good luck
also, since ade is in sydney, I just remembered the field ornithologist club in sydney meets at the australian museum once a month...used to anyway, they occasionally had talks about photography of birds (and plants too) since a lot of their members are quite keen photographers. try Birds Australia too, sometimes they have photography workshops at Barren Grounds refuge (near wollongong)Pere[This message has been edited by Peregrine (edited 08 August 2001).] SILVER Member
Are we there yet?
1,897 posts
Location: australia
Are we there yet?
1,897 posts
Location: australia
Posted:
Thanks Firefunk and Pere for the info. I had thought a second hand one might be the go. I'm also a regular visitor to the museum, and I totally forgot about Birds Australia (silly really, I've just finished a survey for them). Thanks!Time for some retail therapy.....ade
Thanks Firefunk and Pere for the info. I had thought a second hand one might be the go. I'm also a regular visitor to the museum, and I totally forgot about Birds Australia (silly really, I've just finished a survey for them
). Thanks!Time for some retail therapy.....ade One Tyred Guy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
Posted:
I just shot a few pictures of fire and had some good results. First, my failures. I had NO sucess with a disposable camera. It seems that the shutter only stays open for 1/125 at most so you get NO trails. If you MUST take it with a disposable camera, leave the flash ON and take a frozen shot. Not really worth it I found.I recently had GREAT sucess with my SLR and FLASH! I took a bunch of GREAT photos with no tripod (would have been better if I had had one.) I found that the great shots were open for 1/2 to 1 second or longer. I left the shutter open for 2-3 seconds manually and got some great LONG streams.I snapped the photo RIGHT when the person looked the best (face at camera, good pose, etc.) this tripped the flash and exposes the spinner but the shutter stays open for a full second. I got great streams of fire and a nice frozen spinner.I'm very surprised that people are anti-flash as all of my good photos used them. I shot mostly at 1 second exposure f16 with 800 film (just cuz it's what I had, next time I'll do 100 ASA.)I liked shooting on a smaller apeture (f16) as it gave me more depth of field to get background details and less pressure to focus perfectly which is hard to do in the dark on the fly.The next time I'll try to pose my subjects a bit more. I didn't realize I'd get such good clarity with a good flash with an internal light meter. Frankly, I didn't like the photos that I got without a flash as you didn't get much clarity on the spinner.
I just shot a few pictures of fire and had some good results. First, my failures. I had NO sucess with a disposable camera. It seems that the shutter only stays open for 1/125 at most so you get NO trails. If you MUST take it with a disposable camera, leave the flash ON and take a frozen shot. Not really worth it I found.I recently had GREAT sucess with my SLR and FLASH! I took a bunch of GREAT photos with no tripod (would have been better if I had had one.) I found that the great shots were open for 1/2 to 1 second or longer. I left the shutter open for 2-3 seconds manually and got some great LONG streams.I snapped the photo RIGHT when the person looked the best (face at camera, good pose, etc.) this tripped the flash and exposes the spinner but the shutter stays open for a full second. I got great streams of fire and a nice frozen spinner.I'm very surprised that people are anti-flash as all of my good photos used them. I shot mostly at 1 second exposure f16 with 800 film (just cuz it's what I had, next time I'll do 100 ASA.)I liked shooting on a smaller apeture (f16) as it gave me more depth of field to get background details and less pressure to focus perfectly which is hard to do in the dark on the fly.The next time I'll try to pose my subjects a bit more. I didn't realize I'd get such good clarity with a good flash with an internal light meter. Frankly, I didn't like the photos that I got without a flash as you didn't get much clarity on the spinner.
PK is a god.. i love the Peeekster.
.:PK:. [poiinthepark founder member]
Educate your self in the Hazards of Fire Breathing STAY SAFE!
poo-bah
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
Posted:
Mrmo--Perhaps you'll scan these in and share them with the rest of the class...?
Mrmo--Perhaps you'll scan these in and share them with the rest of the class...?
Laugh while you can, monkey-boy
One Tyred Guy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
Posted:
Actually, I just used it as a test roll so I promised the spinners that I wouldn't post em'. (Them: This isn't going to show up on the internet or anything... ha, ha! Me: Er.. no!) And now they're all of to Burning Man. I'll post my next roll.
Actually, I just used it as a test roll so I promised the spinners that I wouldn't post em'. (Them: This isn't going to show up on the internet or anything... ha, ha! Me: Er.. no!) And now they're all of to Burning Man. I'll post my next roll.
PK is a god.. i love the Peeekster.
.:PK:. [poiinthepark founder member]
Educate your self in the Hazards of Fire Breathing STAY SAFE!
One Tyred Guy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
203 posts
Location: Camaiore, Lu, Italy
Posted:
I took my second roll. Actually, I set the camera and then handed the camera to someone and spun for it. I REALLY like how a 1 second exposure WITH a flash looks. I still haven't lugged my tripod out yet but I'm SURE they would look even better to get rid of the blury background. I got some interesting effects too because I was spinning in a bright place (Union Square in NYC.)Oddly, ASA didn't seem to matter. My first roll was with 800 and my second was with 100 and they turned out similarly since I had to compensate with the f-stop for the flash anyway. The flash DOES allow me to use higher numbered f-stops and therefore have more in focus. And the fire trails are certaily bright enough!So... er... how DO I post em?
I took my second roll. Actually, I set the camera and then handed the camera to someone and spun for it. I REALLY like how a 1 second exposure WITH a flash looks. I still haven't lugged my tripod out yet but I'm SURE they would look even better to get rid of the blury background. I got some interesting effects too because I was spinning in a bright place (Union Square in NYC.)Oddly, ASA didn't seem to matter. My first roll was with 800 and my second was with 100 and they turned out similarly since I had to compensate with the f-stop for the flash anyway. The flash DOES allow me to use higher numbered f-stops and therefore have more in focus. And the fire trails are certaily bright enough!So... er... how DO I post em?
PK is a god.. i love the Peeekster.
.:PK:. [poiinthepark founder member]
Educate your self in the Hazards of Fire Breathing STAY SAFE!
poo-bah
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
Posted:
Mrmo--Well, you could send one or two to Malcolm, and he'll post them here in a week or so.You could set up your own website and put them up there.You could upload them to a photo-sharing website and then give us the link to that. https://www.ofoto.com
is a popular one. I use https://www.imagestation.comBelow
is a link to the Yahoo category listing a bunch of these services.https://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Communication_and_Information_Management/Internet_and_World_Wide_Web/Personal_Information_Management/Photo_Albums/
Mrmo--Well, you could send one or two to Malcolm, and he'll post them here in a week or so.You could set up your own website and put them up there.You could upload them to a photo-sharing website and then give us the link to that. https://www.ofoto.com
is a popular one. I use https://www.imagestation.comBelow
is a link to the Yahoo category listing a bunch of these services.https://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Communication_and_Information_Management/Internet_and_World_Wide_Web/Personal_Information_Management/Photo_Albums/
Laugh while you can, monkey-boy
member
171 posts
Location: Bristol, UK
171 posts
Location: Bristol, UK
Posted:
Great thread!Ive been into long exposure for a no. of years. I have the most awsome shots fire, uv, glowstick and firework swinging.Ive been into 3d (stereoscopic) photography for the past 2-3 years and i can tell you that my work takes all of this , quite literally into the next dimension...the results are astounding you get full on full colour sculptural shapes (not just lines) from the fire trails. You have to use a viewer (a bit like binoculars or the image can be projected and viewed with special glasses) the effect is somewhere between photography and timeslice(re:the matrix). I have been fortunate enough to work with tim macmillan inventor of timeslice photography (yes a british dude invented it well over 10 years ago) on a firebreathing shoot for the BBC. Some of his work is astounding.I am continuing to push the envelope...Don't imitate - inovate, create and intensify.Love Axis
Great thread!Ive been into long exposure for a no. of years. I have the most awsome shots fire, uv, glowstick and firework swinging.Ive been into 3d (stereoscopic) photography for the past 2-3 years and i can tell you that my work takes all of this , quite literally into the next dimension...the results are astounding you get full on full colour sculptural shapes (not just lines) from the fire trails. You have to use a viewer (a bit like binoculars or the image can be projected and viewed with special glasses) the effect is somewhere between photography and timeslice(re:the matrix). I have been fortunate enough to work with tim macmillan inventor of timeslice photography (yes a british dude invented it well over 10 years ago) on a firebreathing shoot for the BBC. Some of his work is astounding.I am continuing to push the envelope...Don't imitate - inovate, create and intensify.Love Axis
member
45 posts
Location: Bath UK
45 posts
Location: Bath UK
Posted:
It really is very easy to take fire poi pictures that come out well and look excellent. All you need is a dark backdrop and a camera with ajustable shutter speed.check out www.poishop.f2s.com/poiimage.htmlThese were taken with a digital camera with between 0.5s and 2s exposures. I don't think it matters about whether you move or not, it looks just as good whatever.check out this space for more images to come, I have recently had a glowstick and sparkler photosession.
It really is very easy to take fire poi pictures that come out well and look excellent. All you need is a dark backdrop and a camera with ajustable shutter speed.check out www.poishop.f2s.com/poiimage.htmlThese were taken with a digital camera with between 0.5s and 2s exposures. I don't think it matters about whether you move or not, it looks just as good whatever.check out this space for more images to come, I have recently had a glowstick and sparkler photosession.
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errrm I intend to live forever, or at least die trying.
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