Forums > Social Chat > ideas in changing the wick?
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104 posts
Location: Brisbane QLD Australia
104 posts
Location: Brisbane QLD Australia
Posted:
i changed my wick today, and realied its a bugger to get the screws over the holes directly, and realised its a think that will come with practice, and realised to ask the experts. thats why i ask if anyone has and hints, there own little ways in which to make it easyer? any ideas would be helpfull
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[This message has been edited by smitty (edited 05 February 2001).]
i changed my wick today, and realied its a bugger to get the screws over the holes directly, and realised its a think that will come with practice, and realised to ask the experts. thats why i ask if anyone has and hints, there own little ways in which to make it easyer? any ideas would be helpfull
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[This message has been edited by smitty (edited 05 February 2001).]
poo-bah
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
1,015 posts
Location: Austin TX USA
Posted:
Are you talking about running an eyelet bolt through a stack of wicking, as in a cathedral (interleaved) wick? I don't use eyelet bolts in the wicks I make, but maybe you can use my technique:Get a very large sheetmetal screw (I'm using one that's 6" x .5"). Get a tube that is the screw's diameter or smaller, but bigger than the bolt's. Drive the screw through your stack of wicking. As you unscrew it from the stack, hold the tube against the tip from the other side (this is a little tricky, and requires a little manual dexterity). When you get the screw out, you should have the tube in its place, and you can just drop the bolt in and pull the tube out.------------------Adam Rice :: www.fire-gear.com
Are you talking about running an eyelet bolt through a stack of wicking, as in a cathedral (interleaved) wick? I don't use eyelet bolts in the wicks I make, but maybe you can use my technique:Get a very large sheetmetal screw (I'm using one that's 6" x .5"). Get a tube that is the screw's diameter or smaller, but bigger than the bolt's. Drive the screw through your stack of wicking. As you unscrew it from the stack, hold the tube against the tip from the other side (this is a little tricky, and requires a little manual dexterity). When you get the screw out, you should have the tube in its place, and you can just drop the bolt in and pull the tube out.------------------Adam Rice :: www.fire-gear.com
Laugh while you can, monkey-boy
AnonymousPLATINUM Member
Posted:
Smitty,Correct me if I'm wrong, you're talking about wick would spiral around a staff. Yeah, it's a pain in the butt. I've ended up winding it around layer by layer, screwing in only enough to keep the wick in place and unscrewing for each layer. It's time consuming, but less frustrating to me than the "hunt-and-peck" method. I've use cathdral wicks at the ends at the end of my torches for a while now. I can add more wick that way without adding more wick up the dowel. (Too wide a wick on a torch can mean burnt elbows if you do Snakes.) Sounds like it might be an easier way for changing wick on staff as well. Check Adam's method. Sounds good for this application. Diana
Smitty,Correct me if I'm wrong, you're talking about wick would spiral around a staff. Yeah, it's a pain in the butt. I've ended up winding it around layer by layer, screwing in only enough to keep the wick in place and unscrewing for each layer. It's time consuming, but less frustrating to me than the "hunt-and-peck" method. I've use cathdral wicks at the ends at the end of my torches for a while now. I can add more wick that way without adding more wick up the dowel. (Too wide a wick on a torch can mean burnt elbows if you do Snakes.) Sounds like it might be an easier way for changing wick on staff as well. Check Adam's method. Sounds good for this application. Diana
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92 posts
Location: Androgen, Australia
member
92 posts
Location: Androgen, Australia
Posted:
I think you're talking about the "tube core" method of making wicks. The best thing to do is to measure exatly where the holes are before you tape your wick on. First of all ... draw a line connecting the two holes and extending about 3-5cm past each hole ... then measure how far the holes are from the end of the stick. This way ... when you tape the kevlar onto the stick, you should be able to find out where your holes are by using you measurements ... and you can drill your holes in the kevlar or push your nail through etc.Ðraevon
I think you're talking about the "tube core" method of making wicks. The best thing to do is to measure exatly where the holes are before you tape your wick on. First of all ... draw a line connecting the two holes and extending about 3-5cm past each hole ... then measure how far the holes are from the end of the stick. This way ... when you tape the kevlar onto the stick, you should be able to find out where your holes are by using you measurements ... and you can drill your holes in the kevlar or push your nail through etc.Ðraevon
member
104 posts
Location: Brisbane QLD Australia
104 posts
Location: Brisbane QLD Australia
Posted:
basicaly, i aint an expert in this field, but the wick is wraped around the ends and has two screws holding the wick on. hope that made sence[This message has been edited by smitty (edited 05 February 2001).]
basicaly, i aint an expert in this field, but the wick is wraped around the ends and has two screws holding the wick on. hope that made sence[This message has been edited by smitty (edited 05 February 2001).]
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