Forums > Technical Discussion > Contact balls, Bike tires, Adhesives

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Sister ElevenGOLD Member
owner of the group property
1,277 posts
Location: Seattle, WA, USA


Posted:
Super glue claims to be super, but I'm finding it doesn't seem to bond in the slightest to either my bike tires (would be useful to keep my handles from unraveling if I tug too hard) or the stage ball on my contact poi (the slits I made in the top are getting wider every time they take a bump). What glue is good for these?

p|.q|r:|::s|.s|s:|:.s|q.|:p|s.|.p|s


liquidtrancei dream in circles...
336 posts
Location: Scotland


Posted:
so long as the slits aren't MASSIVE i wouldn't worry about it, I don't bother to glue mine back up and neither do a lot of people, the slit doesn't make a difference in practice(unless it's massive and the structure of the ball is compromised) I think it's better left open as then you can switch out/adjust cords etc

even chuck norris can't pin you down if your on fire


Sister ElevenGOLD Member
owner of the group property
1,277 posts
Location: Seattle, WA, USA


Posted:
Well, I didn't think they were huge, but in any case they are getting bigger, and any time they bang into something the "flaps" get all overlapped and skewed, so I have to stop and make the surface smooth again if I want to do any contact stuff.

Though today I got tangled and accidentally tugged hard enough to pop out my stopper knot, so I'm thinking I might be able to get another pair of balls, drill the holes, and cram the stoppers in without the aid of slits.

p|.q|r:|::s|.s|s:|:.s|q.|:p|s.|.p|s


ecaBRONZE Member
member
197 posts
Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA


Posted:
Gorilla glue may do the trick though it does expand as it cures. Otherwise, I'd suggest giving Lexel a try. It's a caulk-style adhesive that adheres pretty much anything to anything, it takes quite a while to fully cure (tack free in 30 minutes, firm in 2-4 days, completely cured in 1-2 weeks), you should be able to get it at any hardware store.

Also, it is semi-flexible when cured, stronger than silicone, can be painted etc. If i remember correctly (bought my tube almost a year ago), it's roughly $7.

"Think of the pussy, Weevil."
"What's a pussy-weevil?"


Sister ElevenGOLD Member
owner of the group property
1,277 posts
Location: Seattle, WA, USA


Posted:
Hm, hadn't thought of the Gorilla glue. I can sand off any foamy bits that ooze out. I'll definitely try the Lexel some time, too. Thanks!

p|.q|r:|::s|.s|s:|:.s|q.|:p|s.|.p|s


animatEdBRONZE Member
1 + 1 = 3
3,540 posts
Location: Bristol UK


Posted:
there is a reason that Superglue is Rubbish for the applications you're saying. smile

It eats plastic/rubber.

That's how it works. it eats into the item a bit, and then it bonds itself to it as it hardens.

For the Stage poi, DRILL a hole big enough to feed a cord through. then the slit on the other side (so that you can tie a knot in the cord) doesn't matter so much. Smaller the better, obviously. No glue required.

Bike tires - Use rubber cement. it comes in all puncture repair kits smile

Empty your mind. Be formless, Shapeless, like Water.
Put Water into a cup, it becomes the cup, put water into a bottle, it becomes the bottle, put water into a teapot, it becomes the teapot.
Water can flow, or it can Crash.
Be Water My Friend.


Sister ElevenGOLD Member
owner of the group property
1,277 posts
Location: Seattle, WA, USA


Posted:
LTC: re: the stage balls, that is how I did them, save that I cut an X shape opposite the hole, which is how Drex's tutorial suggested (which, so far as I recall, is what Ronan did with his). The problem is when the balls hit each other/the sidewalk/my face, they deform momentarily, opening the slit wider than it ought to get opened, and tears it open farther. This problem would still exist with a single slit, with the added benefit of making it harder to get my cord through.

p|.q|r:|::s|.s|s:|:.s|q.|:p|s.|.p|s


liquidtrancei dream in circles...
336 posts
Location: Scotland


Posted:
i use a single slit just over an inch long, yes it's a bit tricky to get the cord through (a hook to pull it through helps) but the ball retains it's structural strength and even after a hell of a lot of use they are still in tiptop condition.
# note on the hole for the cord, drill it so it's just big enough for the cord to rotate freely, seems to be an improvement for contact stuff/doesn't cause as much interference in arm rolls

even chuck norris can't pin you down if your on fire


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