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PyroMonkey
PyroMonkey

b...bal...lence?....
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
Member Since: 6th Jan 2005
Total posts: 370
Posted:Gday all!!

Im from australia and i love a bit of climbing. anyone else climb??

if so, where abouts? indoor/outdoor? toprope/lead/boulder? Grades? Fav climbs??

Gotta love a good chat about it tongue
Me... i love a good boulder, in or out. Havent done much outdoor toprope or lead but would love to do more.


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Mynci
Mynci

Macaque of all trades
Location: wombling free...
Member Since: 27th Apr 2005
Total posts: 8737
Posted:Only Bouldering at the moment.
looking to nail a 6b problem in the indoors tonight actually, it's got a tricky crux that I've been having trouble with but that shouldn't take long to master. I've only been at it since october / november so really enjoying and looking to get outside for some play once the UK thaws a little and I have a little more experence.

Durbs - I'm looking to head up to craggy island in Sutton for some bouldring soon and maybe guildford once I've done some rope training, probably with Step, we'll let you know when we're planning on heading up if you like.


A couple of balls short of a full cascade... or maybe a few cards short of a deck... we'll see how this all fans out.

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Sounds awesome.... Wish I had the money for a trad rack. frown

Originally Posted By: WoodlandAppleOriginally Posted By: aston

Those are SA grades. 24 is about 6c+. So I am comfortable osighting 6b.

and we all know SA grades are a rip off of Aus grades; just like up to 2 grades difference which is retarded, your grade 24 is like our grade 22.

Ive sport red pointed up to SA grade 27 (sounds way harder than Aus 25!), whih is like 7b
So my plan is to do some epic training this year and be able to push my onsight closer to this mark.

Yeah. Dunno why that is. There is a (short) doable 27 near Grahamstown, but I am just not attracted to it as a climb. Will probably do it at some point, because it is close, but it does not really mean very much.


'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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WoodlandApple
WoodlandApple

addict
Location: Australia
Member Since: 1st Dec 2009
Total posts: 474
Posted:Originally Posted By: astonSounds awesome.... Wish I had the money for a trad rack. frown



there are a few tricks that I feel that I can share with you,

THe honest way:
If you have a regular partner who wants to trad too, share the cost and get a rack inbetween 2.
Or just start buying bits and pieces, a set of nuts here, a biner or two there. Soon you will have enough.
Cheap climbing gear is still rated - it doesnt all have to be BD gear. Kong Cams work just as well, OP nuts are like BD nuts but half the price.
Buying from America is really cheap at the moment!

You have to learn how to place gear anyway; which generally means finding a trad climber to learn from; and they will have a rack - repay them with beer and petrol money.

There are some good Ebay deals every now and again for racks; but unless you know a lot about gear I wouldnt buy second hand gear. Also Ebay is where you find a lot of stolen climbing gear being sold; which leads me to the dishonest section.

Dishonest
BOOTY

Not really dishonest as much as sneaky, its when you find gear that has been left in the rock and take that. All you need is a rap rope and a nutkey; a large hex for a hammer (or a rock) Go to a trad area and see if anyone has left any gear.

Tips for Booty finding,
Go after a uni or a club trip, there is always something left. Scan the easy beginner climbs and the ones you know where the gear is tricky.
Go when it rains. You can rap in the rain, most climbers retreat leaving valuable gear behind as booty. Particularly successful with the aforementioned uni and club groups as they are silly enough to leave at least 3 bits of gear in their retreat anchor.

I kid you not; half the nuts on my rack are booty nuts. God bless the bumbly climber!


sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.

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Durbs
Durbs

Classically British
Location: Epsom, Surrey, England
Member Since: 23rd Sep 2001
Total posts: 5688
Posted:Originally Posted By: MynciOnly Bouldering at the moment.
Durbs - I'm looking to head up to craggy island in Sutton for some bouldring soon and maybe guildford once I've done some rope training, probably with Step, we'll let you know when we're planning on heading up if you like.

Cool cool - let me know. We usually go bouldering on Wednesdays, and try and go routing on the weekend, but let me know when you're coming. There's bouldering at Craggy G but it's not great, certainly not compared to Craggy2.

Oh, and prepare to be spanked on grades, Craggy tend to set them on the stiff side. I onsighted 6c at Shoreham and a 6b+ at Westway, flashing 6a at Craggy is en epic acheivment wink


Burner of Toast
Spinner of poi
Slacker of enormous magnitude

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:I have some experience placing gear, but it is true that I will need to find someone to climb with.

Is cheaper to get through the States here as well. Ah well, maybe once I have a salary. tongue2


'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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WoodlandApple
WoodlandApple

addict
Location: Australia
Member Since: 1st Dec 2009
Total posts: 474
Posted:the weather turned cooler so I went out for a bit of tradding yesterday. I got spanked on a climb I used to run laps on a couple of years ago.

Uni is bad for my climbing life. I need to defer and become a climberbum frown


sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Uni is one of the only chances I have to climb.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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WoodlandApple
WoodlandApple

addict
Location: Australia
Member Since: 1st Dec 2009
Total posts: 474
Posted:I went from being a climbing guide to a student, so my rock time is like 10% of what it used to be frown

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.

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WoodlandApple
WoodlandApple

addict
Location: Australia
Member Since: 1st Dec 2009
Total posts: 474
Posted:funniest thing ever, I just put up my logbook on 8a.nu for shits and giggles.

It ranked my (for Australia) in the top 100 this year, top 200 of all time for routes

and in the top 50 for boulder this year and top 200 of all time.


I call bullshit bigtime. but it did make me feel a little bit good about myself despite me knowing its a wank


EDITED_BY: WoodlandApple (1265439590)
EDIT_REASON: I swore 3 times and it didnt sensor anything?


sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:We use 8a.nu for our colours system.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:I hate 8a.nu. Jens is a &^*$("%*.

hehe


Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Yeah. But since we use a minimum number of points, what that value is does not really make much difference, as long as everyone involved uses the same number of points for a grade. shrug

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:haha it no worries, just that we have a wierd grading system for trad and it doesn't fit into the 8a way of doing things, which Jens takes as an excuse to say British climbers are crap. Its a good system for sport climbers though.

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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Durbs
Durbs

Classically British
Location: Epsom, Surrey, England
Member Since: 23rd Sep 2001
Total posts: 5688
Posted:It's also possibly the slowest and worse designed website out there, but I don't use it so I don't really mind

Time till Font: 8 weeks grin


Burner of Toast
Spinner of poi
Slacker of enormous magnitude

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:Time till Verdon: 2.5 weeks tongue2

hug


Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Yeah. Would not bother if I was doing much trad.

But for what we need it for it is fine.


'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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WyattDavisSpins
WyattDavisSpins

WYATTSPINSPOI
Location: UTAH
Member Since: 6th Dec 2009
Total posts: 69
Posted:ITS ALL ABOUT THE BOULDER !! haha jk.
but im a little more into bouldering.
Utahs got some of the best climbing in the world smile its really quite amazing to see some of the stuff the "pros" climb on as well as some of there new projects

EDITED_BY: WyattDavisSpins (1265727763)


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DanKenyon
stranger
Location: UK and Europe
Member Since: 5th Oct 2009
Total posts: 22
Posted:im a climbing instructor grin love it grin

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WoodlandApple
WoodlandApple

addict
Location: Australia
Member Since: 1st Dec 2009
Total posts: 474
Posted:Originally Posted By: WyattDavisSpinsITS ALL ABOUT THE BOULDER !! haha jk.
but im a little more into bouldering.
Utahs got some of the best climbing in the world smile its really quite amazing to see some of the stuff the "pros" climb on as well as some of there new projects

hell yeah, Indian creek is the best place EVER.


sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.

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Mynci
Mynci

Macaque of all trades
Location: wombling free...
Member Since: 27th Apr 2005
Total posts: 8737
Posted:I'm rather jealous of you people living in warm dry places with good climbing frown

A couple of balls short of a full cascade... or maybe a few cards short of a deck... we'll see how this all fans out.

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WyattDavisSpins
WyattDavisSpins

WYATTSPINSPOI
Location: UTAH
Member Since: 6th Dec 2009
Total posts: 69
Posted:its not to warm or dry hear right now ! haha..everything is covered in snow !!

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:Somehow I'm not surprised that Honnold got the 2nd ascent...

http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/2010/02/ambrosia-2nd-ascent-by-alex-honnold.html
br>
Makes my palms a bit clammy


Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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WyattDavisSpins
WyattDavisSpins

WYATTSPINSPOI
Location: UTAH
Member Since: 6th Dec 2009
Total posts: 69
Posted:daaaaamn thats a high ball for sure !! my friend just got back from bishop he got some hella cool clips !

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brenonfire413
brenonfire413

Fire Spinner Exarch
Location: New Orleans, LA United States
Member Since: 22nd Dec 2009
Total posts: 514
Posted:Same here, have not been on the rocks since October. The ground is either too wet for good grip, it's snowing or I'm working.

"Are you sure it's safe to drink bleach?"
"Yes, bleach is 90% water, we are 90% water, therefore: we are bleach."
-Nathan Explosion, Metalocalypse

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Sea-cliff on trad this weekend.
Probably only top-rope, but hell, it is rock. smile


'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:I'm off to the Verdon TOMORROW!!!!!!!!

*dances*


Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:frown

Did not get onto the cliffs. *Really* missing rock....


'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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bakabombs
stranger

Member Since: 9th Dec 2009
Total posts: 2
Posted:horshoe canyon in arkansas = amazing. 24 hours of hell this september!

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willworkforfoodjnr
willworkforfoodjnr

Hunting robot foxes
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Member Since: 8th Aug 2007
Total posts: 1046
Posted:Verdon trip was awesome, a week of climbing in a tshirt. smile

We made an attempt on La Demande but failed unfortunately - my partner took a nasty fall on the second pitch, ripping a cam and falling around 15ft to hit the ledge I was belaying from. He went a bit green after that and had to go back down, I'll be back though, awesome route.

Feels COLD back in England now haha!


Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!

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aston
aston

Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
Location: South Africa
Member Since: 2nd Dec 2007
Total posts: 4061
Posted:Is he ok at least? Hitting ledges sucks....

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland

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