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Forums > Beginner Staff Moves > Re-enforcing a steel staff. . .

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Phellan


member
Location: Kamloops, BC

Total posts: 74
Posted:Ok, I know in several places there's been suggestions for building staves and the like.



However I'm specifically interested in suggestions on how to re-enforce or build an exceptional strong staff wink



Now currently I'm using a 4 1/2 foot steel staff, 3/4" diameter. The metal is 1/16th inch thick, so the hollow interior of the metal tube is 5/8th of an inch in diameter. My wicks are 2.5 " wide Kevlar, bout 4 feet of it wrapped.



Now what I'm looking to do is build a 5 1/2 foot staff, tempered steel like my current one, probably the same thickness as well (it's the standard size). However what I'm looking for is some suggestions on reenforcing the staff as my current one has warped very badly.



I do remember one suggestion was to use Balsa wood as a core for the staff. What I'm liable to do if that's the case is insert a 4 1/2 length of balsa wood into the interior of the metal, and plug the ends of the hollow tube with 6 inches of steel and weld the steel in place, then drill through the steel plugs and attach my wicks to that. I'm looking for the extra weight at the end since it helps with the momentum and I'm looking to learn contact.



However since no one in my region (of about 10-12 staff users) is a contact staffer, I've no idea what is recommended, or more importantly, what aspects of a staff are used in contact staffing.



So suggestions for construction, materials, handle grips for Contact Staff.



Weight for me is *not* an issue since I can easily work with a staff upwards of 8-10 lbs easily (my staff is about 6 lbs and I happily finger spin with it. . .heck it's even a bit light IMO).



So just to go over that again, I would like some input on other ideas for how to re-enforce the staff so it won't warp during very fast spins and will have a good weight distribution and balance for contact staffing (since I've no idea what kind of staff balance is needed for that, heavier ends? Evenly distributed weight through the whole staff. . .).



Edited to add: I have access to a steel working shop so I will be predrilling the staff and welding there too. So access to industrial equipment isn't a problem either wink


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Klaymen



Location: Melbourne, Vic.

Total posts: 180
Posted:I found normal dowel isn't strong enough to resist steel warming, even at a length of 1m. My mates 1.6m staff bends like a mofo and also has dowel all the way through. So I assume balsa wood being even softer would provide even less force against bending.

So I'm not really sure what to do about this, maybe try concrete lolsign .

After finding dowel didn't work, I think I've just accepted if you make the staff out of steel, it'll bend and you'll have to bend it back. So unless you can find another good metal, I dunno. Good luck with it though, and if you find a way, tell us!!!

- Klaymen


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Phellan


member
Location: Kamloops, BC

Total posts: 74
Posted:Hmmm if wood isn't strong enough to resist then yes, a second inner steel (or aluminum) pipe might work. Heck even a titanium inner would. Or something that could act as a heatsink to bleed the heat out of the outter pipe so it didn't warp.

Now how about fibreglass. . .I wonder if that would be strong enough as an interior. . .weld the metal plug into place on one end, fill the tube with fibreglass (or another similar substance) and then after drying weld the second plug into place. . . a solid core of fibreglass. Just not sure if that would have the strength required. Nor am I sure on it's heat conductivity.

Something that would act as a heatsink would be very useful. Not sure what that would be. Normally heatsinks are made out of copper as it has a high ability to take on heat. . .


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thor


thor

Flaming Lesbian
Location: Portland, Oregon

Total posts: 181
Posted:rarely heatsinks are made of copper.

copper has an increadible capacity for absorbing heat, in that case it would be idea for chaneling it away from a source. on the other side of the coin is the fact copper dosen't readily give up heat.

you would end up with a staff which would be too hot, even in the middle, before you knew what was happening.

hop sells aluminum staffs, although i would assume those would be too light for your tastes. there are many kinds of steel which are produced in pipe form, i would consult a steel dealer (they exist, but are sometimes difficult to find) and ask for suggestions on high temperature alloys, or you could even try something as simple as increasing the wall thickness of the pipe.

but as far as reinforcing a metal pipe? heh, metal pipe is used to reinforce other things! i can't imagine how you're abusing your staff to warp it so bad, but i would love to see it in the process ;]


Lights dancing off my skin as chains wrap round it.
Pain is in a little box and I'm so glad I found it.

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...{SAFE}...


...{SAFE}...

"if i jump in the fire, will you?"
Location: USA, wishing I was in SA

Total posts: 633
Posted:well heres my two cents... first off , Thor's the man... ask .... knowledge is power. ask a dealer. he'll tell you what ill tell you . start by increasing your thickness , stay with aluminium , but up the cut to about 4/16 ... though it maybe hard to find. the dealer will ask you what your doing with it (?) and then he'll tell you that there is no need for a pipe of that size . tell him you want it, and to get it for you now , and just shut the hell up !!! you dont need to explain what your uses are!! now you have more durable , heat resistant staff ! *yeay* i still think that a dowel is important , absorbs heat ! thats important ! then the weight factor .

well thats me for metal staff's ... i made my own wooden one , i would advise everyone to make a wooden one so many advantages and the only dissadvantage i can think of is the weight factor ! if you would like all the info on making a wooden one lemme know , id love to help ....

yea man ... let us know how it goes! cool

biggrin beerchug beerchug


i like breaking the Law frown , of Gravity wink !

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bender
GOLD Member since Nov 2001

still can't believe it's not butter
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Total posts: 6979
Posted:Just remember, the harder your staff, the easier you break when the inevitable smaks happen eek
the warped sense of humour in the social chat forum is proof of how often staves hit noggins wink


Laugh Often, Smile Much, Post lolcats Always

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Phellan


member
Location: Kamloops, BC

Total posts: 74
Posted:Hehe. . .lets just say I spin very fast sometimes. . . when the staff's warmed up spinning it very fast is enough to warp the metal. Dropping it during a fast spin (practice or lit) is enough to give it a very nasty bend.

Come to think of it we have a steelworks in the industrial section of town. . .and my neighbor is a welder so . . . I refuse to use Aluminum. Far too light, if anything at about 5-6lbs I find my staff is too light. I prefer heavier, it suits my quick spins and large amounts of finger rolls which rely mainly on momentum.

I'd break a wooden staff like no tomorrow. . . cracked a practice piece of wooden dowel with a bad transition.

I'll be making a steel w/ fibreglass core. . but definately will be useful if I can get a thicker quality of metal. I'll look into it fairly quickly as my staff's having to be bent back into shape every day. . .lol.

Hehe Bender! no doubt. . . but I'm more afraid of poi breaking me. . . I bleed from those all the time. Scars from learning staff are long healed by now biggrin


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bender
GOLD Member since Nov 2001

still can't believe it's not butter
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Total posts: 6979
Posted:i worry for my own virility.
/cross legs


Laugh Often, Smile Much, Post lolcats Always

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