Forums > Technical Discussion > LED skunkworks: Wish list/brainstorm.
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142 posts
Location: upside down
142 posts
Location: upside down
Posted:
Like quite a few of you I've been bitten by the LED bug, and while I've managed to create a few nice poi I would like to take if further. I've spent the last two days reading documentation and spec sheets, and now I'm 100% certain I've absorbed at least 1% of the information I'll need to in order to produce PIC controlled poi and staff.
But what to do? I've had a few ideas since seeing FlameOz perform recently, but I'm sure others out there have bucket loads of ideas they wouldn't mind sharing with the HOP community, in the interests of giving the geeky ones something to do if nothing else.
SO
If you could wish for anything in your LED toys, anything at all, be it simple or complicated, humble or part of some fiendish plot to take over the world, please post it here!
Some thoughts.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synchronization.
poi and or staff following the same lighting sequence, in unison.
This would require either physical contact via a conductive surface (located on the tips of staff/poi heads) to transfer the sequence and establish a heartbeat, or wireless communication to do the same or transmit the sequence real time from a controlling source (master staff/poi).
I figure this would be good for group performance, or to unify a group of individual spinners.
----------------------------------------
Audio sequence triggers.
lighting sequences (as simple as a single pulse) being triggered by audio input. ie flashing to the beat.
This could get quite complicated I suppose, as different frequency ranges could trigger different effects (spectrum analyzer in your poi/staff anyone?)
----------------------------------------
Programmable sequences.
the ability to key in a lighting sequence via the staff/poi.
applies to setting the tempo as well.
few problems with producing enough user feedback here, ie 'are we tapping the sequence for blue or red???'
----------------------------------------
Lighting effects.
Strobe
colour fade: fade from one colour to another, or through the rainbow with three LEDs
others?
----------------------------------------
ViM
Like quite a few of you I've been bitten by the LED bug, and while I've managed to create a few nice poi I would like to take if further. I've spent the last two days reading documentation and spec sheets, and now I'm 100% certain I've absorbed at least 1% of the information I'll need to in order to produce PIC controlled poi and staff.
But what to do? I've had a few ideas since seeing FlameOz perform recently, but I'm sure others out there have bucket loads of ideas they wouldn't mind sharing with the HOP community, in the interests of giving the geeky ones something to do if nothing else.
SO
If you could wish for anything in your LED toys, anything at all, be it simple or complicated, humble or part of some fiendish plot to take over the world, please post it here!
Some thoughts.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synchronization.
poi and or staff following the same lighting sequence, in unison.
This would require either physical contact via a conductive surface (located on the tips of staff/poi heads) to transfer the sequence and establish a heartbeat, or wireless communication to do the same or transmit the sequence real time from a controlling source (master staff/poi).
I figure this would be good for group performance, or to unify a group of individual spinners.
----------------------------------------
Audio sequence triggers.
lighting sequences (as simple as a single pulse) being triggered by audio input. ie flashing to the beat.
This could get quite complicated I suppose, as different frequency ranges could trigger different effects (spectrum analyzer in your poi/staff anyone?)
----------------------------------------
Programmable sequences.
the ability to key in a lighting sequence via the staff/poi.
applies to setting the tempo as well.
few problems with producing enough user feedback here, ie 'are we tapping the sequence for blue or red???'
----------------------------------------
Lighting effects.
Strobe
colour fade: fade from one colour to another, or through the rainbow with three LEDs
others?
----------------------------------------
ViM
110% MONKEY EVERY TIME ALL THE TIME JUST CANT STOP THE MONKEY
3,149 posts
Location: London
3,149 posts
Location: London
Posted:
RBY is never correct. Depending on what your working with it's RGB or CMY
Thats what my artsy art teacher taugth me
CMY is what you use for pigments (painting) and anything apart from light producing media. Which is why artists use it.
But because artists are silly and get confused because CMY looks similar to RBY but the blue is greeny (cyan) and the red is blueish (magenta)
i blame all of this on the fact magenta has too many syllables.
This is all completely moot for practical LED purposes, seeing as the reds and greens and blues aren't pure RGB anyway
Hey, blame vim, he said i could ramble...
Concerning sticks:
All the way down. Less than £100 is the barrier that needs breaking...
When i started thinking about the costs required for a professional looking glow-staff, aerotech started seeming not so expensive anymore...
RBY is never correct. Depending on what your working with it's RGB or CMY
Thats what my artsy art teacher taugth me
CMY is what you use for pigments (painting) and anything apart from light producing media. Which is why artists use it.
But because artists are silly and get confused because CMY looks similar to RBY but the blue is greeny (cyan) and the red is blueish (magenta)
i blame all of this on the fact magenta has too many syllables.
This is all completely moot for practical LED purposes, seeing as the reds and greens and blues aren't pure RGB anyway
Hey, blame vim, he said i could ramble...
Concerning sticks:
Quote:
Does it have to be lit all the way along, or can it just be the ends?
what would you like something like this to cost?
All the way down. Less than £100 is the barrier that needs breaking...
When i started thinking about the costs required for a professional looking glow-staff, aerotech started seeming not so expensive anymore...
"Switching between different kinds of chuu chuu sometimes gives this "urgh wtf?" effect because it's giving people the phi phenomenon."
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Pictures should work now...
@ vim : Yep, my Poi idea could easily be extended to form a staff. I originally built them with the idea they might be able to screw into the ends of a staff so they could be used in either!
@ Simian : I thought RBY was correct when you're talking about paint - at least it was when I did GCSE art?!
I know what you mean about costs. If you just look at the parts themselves, you could probably get it down to < £50, but these things will always take time to assemble... and that's where the price starts to ramp up.
I've been doing some thinking about the strobing of RGB LEDs and the kinds of speeds you'd need to PWM at to get rid of the seperation of flashes. Maybe I've made an error in my math somewhere, but the results are a little troubling. I looked at a video of me doing some LED Poi. The video runs at 15fps so based on that, the chain length and the angle the Poi cover between frames we should be able to deduce some stuff...
Chain length : ~0.8 m (that's from the handle to the tip of the LED tube)
Frame Rate : 15 fps
Angle covered between frames : ~45°
Circumference of the circle the Poi spin through = 2*Pi*r = 5.03 m
Distance travelled by the Poi between frames = circumference * angle / 360 = 0.63 m
Approximate speed of Poi = distance / time = 0.63 / (1/15) = 9 m/s
So what kind of seperation will there be between flashes?
100Hz => 94.2 mm
1KHz => 9.42mm
10KHz => 0.94mm
100Khz => 0.094mm
Pictures should work now...
@ vim : Yep, my Poi idea could easily be extended to form a staff. I originally built them with the idea they might be able to screw into the ends of a staff so they could be used in either!
@ Simian : I thought RBY was correct when you're talking about paint - at least it was when I did GCSE art?!
I know what you mean about costs. If you just look at the parts themselves, you could probably get it down to < £50, but these things will always take time to assemble... and that's where the price starts to ramp up.
I've been doing some thinking about the strobing of RGB LEDs and the kinds of speeds you'd need to PWM at to get rid of the seperation of flashes. Maybe I've made an error in my math somewhere, but the results are a little troubling. I looked at a video of me doing some LED Poi. The video runs at 15fps so based on that, the chain length and the angle the Poi cover between frames we should be able to deduce some stuff...
Chain length : ~0.8 m (that's from the handle to the tip of the LED tube)
Frame Rate : 15 fps
Angle covered between frames : ~45°
Circumference of the circle the Poi spin through = 2*Pi*r = 5.03 m
Distance travelled by the Poi between frames = circumference * angle / 360 = 0.63 m
Approximate speed of Poi = distance / time = 0.63 / (1/15) = 9 m/s
So what kind of seperation will there be between flashes?
100Hz => 94.2 mm
1KHz => 9.42mm
10KHz => 0.94mm
100Khz => 0.094mm
Cake or Death?
110% MONKEY EVERY TIME ALL THE TIME JUST CANT STOP THE MONKEY
3,149 posts
Location: London
3,149 posts
Location: London
Posted:
FireGeeK: still no pictures for me
Concerning RGB and painting...
(even though its a bit
)
Yes, they do teach that for GCSE Art. That doesn't mean it's correct.
Back in the day, while i was learning colour theory, my art teacher went and got the head of the physics department to come in to convince people that despite what they had been told in the past - red, blue and yellow are NOT primary colours in any sense. There were still people unconvinced in the end, such is the power of RBY propaganda (not helped at all by the incorrect GCSE art syllabus)
FireGeeK: still no pictures for me
Concerning RGB and painting...
(even though its a bit
)Yes, they do teach that for GCSE Art. That doesn't mean it's correct.
Quote:
CMY is what you use for pigments (painting) and anything apart from light producing media. Which is why artists use it.
But artists are silly and get confused because CMY looks similar to RBY but the blue is greeny (cyan) and the red is blueish (magenta)
Back in the day, while i was learning colour theory, my art teacher went and got the head of the physics department to come in to convince people that despite what they had been told in the past - red, blue and yellow are NOT primary colours in any sense. There were still people unconvinced in the end, such is the power of RBY propaganda (not helped at all by the incorrect GCSE art syllabus)
"Switching between different kinds of chuu chuu sometimes gives this "urgh wtf?" effect because it's giving people the phi phenomenon."
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Okay, okay, point taken... I figured out why the pics weren't appearing - have another look now
Okay, okay, point taken...
I figured out why the pics weren't appearing - have another look now Cake or Death?
SILVER Member
journeyman
92 posts
Location: Germany
journeyman
92 posts
Location: Germany
Posted:
hi i just have one wish
RECHARGEABLE
thanks
hi i just have one wish
RECHARGEABLE
thanks
enthusiast
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
Posted:
Hi guys, just thought I'd give you a teaser of what I've been working on...
I've got individual control for any number of different coloured lights anywhere on the toy, which can overlap if you want:
Non-Https Image Link
This shows three lights: one cyan one on the outside doing a strobe, and a red and blue pair on the inside doing alternate fades and flashes. The screenshot doesn't really do justice to how nice it looks when it's spinning round
Now I just need to make a usable interface...
Hi guys, just thought I'd give you a teaser of what I've been working on...
I've got individual control for any number of different coloured lights anywhere on the toy, which can overlap if you want:
Non-Https Image Link
This shows three lights: one cyan one on the outside doing a strobe, and a red and blue pair on the inside doing alternate fades and flashes. The screenshot doesn't really do justice to how nice it looks when it's spinning round
Now I just need to make a usable interface...
monkeys ate my brain
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Interesting stuff - where do we download?
Interesting stuff - where do we download?
Cake or Death?
member
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posted:
here is principal scheme of my poi-idea...
if you'll think a little, you'll understand how to make a cool rainbow poi from this
Non-Https Image Link
here is principal scheme of my poi-idea...
if you'll think a little, you'll understand how to make a cool rainbow poi from this
Non-Https Image Link
SILVER Member
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
Posted:
Wont that only allow light out of the keyhole at the end?
and air powered poi? are you sure that is going to work?
Wont that only allow light out of the keyhole at the end?
and air powered poi? are you sure that is going to work?
member
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posted:
yes, the light goes only through a "keyhole" as you said
this hole opens only one color section on disc, so you see rainbow colorfading when the disc is spinning.
in fact all patrs are located very flat to each other, a space between LED, spinning color-disc and disc with keyhole is 1-2mm
this poi isn't whole "air-powered", the LED is powered by batteries, wich are not shown on the picture. Air flow is needed only for color-disc spinning.
But I think it's possible to power LED from air-flow too
yes, the light goes only through a "keyhole" as you said
this hole opens only one color section on disc, so you see rainbow colorfading when the disc is spinning.
in fact all patrs are located very flat to each other, a space between LED, spinning color-disc and disc with keyhole is 1-2mm
this poi isn't whole "air-powered", the LED is powered by batteries, wich are not shown on the picture. Air flow is needed only for color-disc spinning.
But I think it's possible to power LED from air-flow too
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Quite a cunning idea.. I'd thought about using the airflow to cool luxeons, but that's quite neat. The only problem is that you can only do one pattern... unless you have access to the colour plate so you could replace it with different colours?
Quite a cunning idea.. I'd thought about using the airflow to cool luxeons, but that's quite neat. The only problem is that you can only do one pattern... unless you have access to the colour plate so you could replace it with different colours?
Cake or Death?
SILVER Member
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
Posted:
How does the LED fit into that?
How does the LED fit into that?
member
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
8 posts
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posted:
just place one more disc between the fan and color plate
this disc should be the same size as others
this disc shouldn't spin - make a hole in center of this disc for axle
then just attach led and batteries to this disc...
just place one more disc between the fan and color plate
this disc should be the same size as others
this disc shouldn't spin - make a hole in center of this disc for axle
then just attach led and batteries to this disc...
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
LOL, we've made it to google
LOL, we've made it to google
Cake or Death?
GOLD Member
ZORT!
3,045 posts
Location: Brisbane, Australia
ZORT!
3,045 posts
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posted:
hmmm.... finally popped in for a look here. some cool ideas. i asked some elec engineering mates to look at a few options - i think i might direct them here.
also, i was idley wasting time on ebay, and came across some bloke selling rav'n ribbon lights at US$10.50 each - half the usual price, which then at the current oz/us exchange rate, is bloody good [about AU$15 each - in perspective, about 1.5 jugs = 1600ml of beer worth].
although i appreciate the coolness of making my own stuff - im sorely tempted!
what do you recken sparkies? worth it?
cheers.
hmmm.... finally popped in for a look here. some cool ideas. i asked some elec engineering mates to look at a few options - i think i might direct them here.
also, i was idley wasting time on ebay, and came across some bloke selling rav'n ribbon lights at US$10.50 each - half the usual price, which then at the current oz/us exchange rate, is bloody good [about AU$15 each - in perspective, about 1.5 jugs = 1600ml of beer worth].
although i appreciate the coolness of making my own stuff - im sorely tempted!
what do you recken sparkies? worth it?
cheers.
"Here kitty kitty...." - Schroedinger.
strange/r/st/-ish
142 posts
Location: upside down
142 posts
Location: upside down
Posted:
@ FireGeek
Separation between flashes: I've been working on anything over two milliseconds being highly visible (I swing slowly). No mathematics involved though, just a bit of testing.
we can distinguish what, 24 distinct images per second? Computer gamers will argue 60 or 100+, but no more than that, so even as low as 100(hz) they eye is going to have trouble keeping up and I suspect the brain may fudge things nicely for our purposes.
In any case a simple solution is to use a capacitor as a buffer. I'm doing that now and it works a charm.
you're #1!
https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=LED+poi+program
Just in case I didn't mention it before - OUTSTANDING WORK! those are some nice Poi you have. I was going to suggest putting LEDs in the other end as well, but they look really nice just the way they are.
@ mo-seph
your thinking staff, aren't you
You have it spinning!!?!
@yagel
if you use more than one LED, spaced around the disk, and then rotate the keyhole as well...
@Dentrassi
you
should be studying! At least I think so, haven't been on much.
Do you think any of your elec engineering mates would like to design me a dc-dc step-up converter using components available from Farnell?
rav'n - you probably can't fix them and won't be able to make them do anything new. You won't have the satisfaction of having made them yourself and you will be short a few drinks. oh, and give up any hope of ever being a l33t g33k!
On the other hand you will save a few neurons, have fun with some inexpensive new toys, will still have a hope of getting a date (no, I don't speak for everyone here), and all for just a few days wait! Sounds pretty good to me. 
Been busy trying to work out how to get 3.6 - 4.8v out of a single rechargeable cell. I've decided, perhaps foolishly, that getting the weight down is critical, and eliminating three of the batteries seemed to be the easiest way to do that. Currently the ZXSC100 by ZETEX looks to be the least expensive solution, though of course it turns out that I can't get half the components listed for the reference design so I'm trying to find replacements while keeping in mind all the 'selection of components is critical' warnings.
a little voice keeps telling me that with only one cell it might be possible to fit everything into a juggling ball... bonus!
@ FireGeek
Separation between flashes: I've been working on anything over two milliseconds being highly visible (I swing slowly). No mathematics involved though, just a bit of testing.
In any case a simple solution is to use a capacitor as a buffer. I'm doing that now and it works a charm.
you're #1!
https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=LED+poi+program
Just in case I didn't mention it before - OUTSTANDING WORK! those are some nice Poi you have. I was going to suggest putting LEDs in the other end as well, but they look really nice just the way they are.
@ mo-seph
your thinking staff, aren't you
You have it spinning!!?!
@yagel
if you use more than one LED, spaced around the disk, and then rotate the keyhole as well...
@Dentrassi
you
should be studying! At least I think so, haven't been on much.Do you think any of your elec engineering mates would like to design me a dc-dc step-up converter using components available from Farnell?
rav'n - you probably can't fix them and won't be able to make them do anything new. You won't have the satisfaction of having made them yourself and you will be short a few drinks. oh, and give up any hope of ever being a l33t g33k!
On the other hand you will save a few neurons, have fun with some inexpensive new toys, will still have a hope of getting a date (no, I don't speak for everyone here), and all for just a few days wait! Sounds pretty good to me.
Been busy trying to work out how to get 3.6 - 4.8v out of a single rechargeable cell. I've decided, perhaps foolishly, that getting the weight down is critical, and eliminating three of the batteries seemed to be the easiest way to do that. Currently the ZXSC100 by ZETEX looks to be the least expensive solution, though of course it turns out that I can't get half the components listed for the reference design so I'm trying to find replacements while keeping in mind all the 'selection of components is critical' warnings.
a little voice keeps telling me that with only one cell it might be possible to fit everything into a juggling ball... bonus!
GOLD Member
ZORT!
3,045 posts
Location: Brisbane, Australia
ZORT!
3,045 posts
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posted:
yes. i should be studying.
thank yoo! i think ill buy the rav'ns - i dont really have time to make my own stuff at the moment. will chat to my elec eng mates.
Quote:
@Dentrassi
you should be studying! At least I think so, haven't been on much.
yes. i should be studying.
thank yoo! i think ill buy the rav'ns - i dont really have time to make my own stuff at the moment. will chat to my elec eng mates.
"Here kitty kitty...." - Schroedinger.
strange/r/st/-ish
142 posts
Location: upside down
142 posts
Location: upside down
Posted:
I feel bad now. 
I feel bad now. BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
The problem with using a capacitor, is that you need resistors in there as well then. I'd rather not add resistors as that will reduce the efficiency of the whole thing. We may find, however, that it's just not possible to flash fast enough to avoid this.
We cannot distinguish much better than about 80Hz, but that's for a fixed image. Start moving things around at the speed Poi move and it's a whole other ball game
I know what you mean about moving the LEDs - moving two out of four to the other end would probably look good... but they work right now and I'm reluctant to change them
I've made a start in getting some PIC-controlled Poi - I just ordered a PIC programmer. Now all I need to do is figure out which PIC to use and I can start trying things!
Quote:
Separation between flashes: I've been working on anything over two milliseconds being highly visible (I swing slowly). No mathematics involved though, just a bit of testing.we can distinguish what, 24 distinct images per second? Computer gamers will argue 60 or 100+, but no more than that, so even as low as 100(hz) they eye is going to have trouble keeping up and I suspect the brain may fudge things nicely for our purposes.
In any case a simple solution is to use a capacitor as a buffer. I'm doing that now and it works a charm.
you're #1!
https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=LED+poi+program
Thanks for the compliments - I'm pretty pleased with the way they turned out!
Just in case I didn't mention it before - OUTSTANDING WORK! those are some nice Poi you have. I was going to suggest putting LEDs in the other end as well, but they look really nice just the way they are.
The problem with using a capacitor, is that you need resistors in there as well then. I'd rather not add resistors as that will reduce the efficiency of the whole thing. We may find, however, that it's just not possible to flash fast enough to avoid this.
We cannot distinguish much better than about 80Hz, but that's for a fixed image. Start moving things around at the speed Poi move and it's a whole other ball game
I know what you mean about moving the LEDs - moving two out of four to the other end would probably look good... but they work right now and I'm reluctant to change them
I've made a start in getting some PIC-controlled Poi - I just ordered a PIC programmer. Now all I need to do is figure out which PIC to use and I can start trying things!
Cake or Death?
enthusiast
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
Posted:
Hi all,
I've finally got a useable version of my lightsequencing software
I've put it in it's own thread to avoid hijacking this one with lots of stuff about how to get it working etc, so you can find it [Old link]
Good luck, happy playing!
Hi all,
I've finally got a useable version of my lightsequencing software
I've put it in it's own thread to avoid hijacking this one with lots of stuff about how to get it working etc, so you can find it [Old link]
Good luck, happy playing!
monkeys ate my brain
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Wow, been a while since I've posted on HOP - took a while to find this thread! I just thought I'd post to update y'all on some progress. I just programmed my first PIC! It should flash an LED on / off every ~0.5 seconds. I'll test it out tomorrow.
If I can get this to go, it's step one in my master plan for some UBER poi. :P Step 2 will be to increase the rate of flashing until you see a steady colour when it's swung around. From what I've calulated (can't remember if I posted about that in this thread?) I'll need to be strobing at about 200KHz before it becomes un-detectable.
Stay tuned..
Wow, been a while since I've posted on HOP - took a while to find this thread! I just thought I'd post to update y'all on some progress. I just programmed my first PIC!
It should flash an LED on / off every ~0.5 seconds. I'll test it out tomorrow.If I can get this to go, it's step one in my master plan for some UBER poi. :P Step 2 will be to increase the rate of flashing until you see a steady colour when it's swung around. From what I've calulated (can't remember if I posted about that in this thread?) I'll need to be strobing at about 200KHz before it becomes un-detectable.
Stay tuned..
Cake or Death?
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
Right, some success... I've got a PIC up and running, driving an LED. Here we are at 2Khz PWM :
Non-Https Image Link
And here it is again at 20Khz
Non-Https Image Link
The pictures were taken with a 1/4s exposure and they're consistant with what i could see. I may try a few more frequencies tomorrow and see if i can get away with something lower - the lower the PWM frequency, the more cycles I'll have to do other stuff.
Next big step will be to try adjusting the brightness by adjusting the duty cycle of the PWM pulses. Looking promising though, I think you'll agree.
Right, some success... I've got a PIC up and running, driving an LED. Here we are at 2Khz PWM :
Non-Https Image Link
And here it is again at 20Khz
Non-Https Image Link
The pictures were taken with a 1/4s exposure and they're consistant with what i could see. I may try a few more frequencies tomorrow and see if i can get away with something lower - the lower the PWM frequency, the more cycles I'll have to do other stuff.
Next big step will be to try adjusting the brightness by adjusting the duty cycle of the PWM pulses. Looking promising though, I think you'll agree.
Cake or Death?
BRONZE Member
Irish
525 posts
Location: Dallas.........ish, USA
Irish
525 posts
Location: Dallas.........ish, USA
Posted:
ok...you keep talking such low voltages and equally low amperages
these are LED's were talking about
you can add ALOT more power to them w\o worrying about them getting very warm or damaging the LED itself as long as you have the high intensity ones
for power maybe you might want to try 5 or 6 12v camera batteries, theyre damn small, wiegh next to nothing, and if you put them in series youve got one hell of a punch...like (takes a guess) around 4 or 5 amperes....(loooks for physics notes on conversions)...either way by puttin them in series you increase amperage and thus increase your brightness by ALOT...
just some thoughts of mine...
ok...you keep talking such low voltages and equally low amperages
these are LED's were talking about
you can add ALOT more power to them w\o worrying about them getting very warm or damaging the LED itself as long as you have the high intensity ones
for power maybe you might want to try 5 or 6 12v camera batteries, theyre damn small, wiegh next to nothing, and if you put them in series youve got one hell of a punch...like (takes a guess) around 4 or 5 amperes....(loooks for physics notes on conversions)...either way by puttin them in series you increase amperage and thus increase your brightness by ALOT...
just some thoughts of mine...
Jesus saves sinners and redeems them for cash and
prizes
Co-Founder of Keepers of Light
Educate yourself about the Hazards of Fire Breathing STAY SAFE!
enthusiast
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
Posted:
Errr, I had a 2.2v high intensity yellow LED explode in my face from putting 3v across it a little while ago. I don't recommend it. Also, putting more batteries in series is unlikely to increase the brightness, unless you have many many many leds, but they will give you a longer lifetime.
I've just discovered Lumileds, which are pretty bright (they take 50mA rather than the standard 20), and they come in a nice rectangular package, which points the light outwards, and have pins off both sides so they are really easy to daisychain in series.
Happy playing!
Errr, I had a 2.2v high intensity yellow LED explode in my face from putting 3v across it a little while ago. I don't recommend it. Also, putting more batteries in series is unlikely to increase the brightness, unless you have many many many leds, but they will give you a longer lifetime.
I've just discovered Lumileds, which are pretty bright (they take 50mA rather than the standard 20), and they come in a nice rectangular package, which points the light outwards, and have pins off both sides so they are really easy to daisychain in series.
Happy playing!
monkeys ate my brain
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
What kind of LEDs have you been using?! Are you sure you're not talking about Luxeons?
If I pour more than ~50mA through my LEDs they get dimmer and/or go bang. Higher voltages are good, but they really WILL overheat if you keep them on / over-volted for too long.
What kind of LEDs have you been using?! Are you sure you're not talking about Luxeons?
If I pour more than ~50mA through my LEDs they get dimmer and/or go bang. Higher voltages are good, but they really WILL overheat if you keep them on / over-volted for too long.
Cake or Death?
SILVER Member
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
15,417 posts
Location: South Wales
Posted:
I miss my hat.
I miss my hat.
enthusiast
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
Posted:
Well, they're made by luxeon, I think. There's a page here, which is where I got mine from. They're not the same as the mighty 1000mA beasts with heatsinks, though...
Well, they're made by luxeon, I think. There's a page here, which is where I got mine from. They're not the same as the mighty 1000mA beasts with heatsinks, though...
monkeys ate my brain
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
That last post was more aimed at Darkpeor, but thanks for the info - I new Luxeons weren't cheap, but good GRIEF they're expensive!!!
Any idea how they stack up against ultrabright LEDs drawing a similar current?
That last post was more aimed at Darkpeor, but thanks for the info - I new Luxeons weren't cheap, but good GRIEF they're expensive!!!
Any idea how they stack up against ultrabright LEDs drawing a similar current?
Cake or Death?
enthusiast
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
523 posts
Location: Edinburgh, UK
Posted:
I've got a photo here, which isn't very good, but it gives an indication... the pink/orange things have normal high intensity leds in (they're red, despite what the camera says), while the white blob is the lumileds . I'll see if I can find a more representative picture sometime. But the lumileds hurt my eyes in a dark room, which seems about right
I've got a photo here, which isn't very good, but it gives an indication... the pink/orange things have normal high intensity leds in (they're red, despite what the camera says), while the white blob is the lumileds . I'll see if I can find a more representative picture sometime. But the lumileds hurt my eyes in a dark room, which seems about right
monkeys ate my brain
BRONZE Member
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
old hand
1,174 posts
Location: Great Malvern [UK]
Posted:
How much current do they draw? Surely not the same? I would imagine that white lights would look brighter anyway i.e. this doesn't seem like a very fair comparison to me..? Prove me wrong
How much current do they draw? Surely not the same?
I would imagine that white lights would look brighter anyway i.e. this doesn't seem like a very fair comparison to me..? Prove me wrong Cake or Death?
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