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Chotys


member


Total posts: 91
Posted:Could someone *please* tell me how to attach a new wick to my staff, i've never had to do it before and it is REALLY annoying coz i can't get the screws to go through the kevlar then into the bloody holes. Can someone give me some advice?thanks:Chotys:

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Posted:I found the easiest way to put new wicks on is to first drill 2 holes in to the aluminum(slightly smaller than the screws).then wrap the kevlar around the aluminum, marking out where u made the holes.Then use a screw driver to screw thru the kevlar and into the pre drilled holes. Hope this helps(probably not clear enough!lol)

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Stone
GOLD Member since Jun 2001

Stream Entrant
Location: Melbourne

Total posts: 2830
Posted:I had a similar problem on the weekend. So, I wrapped some masking around the wick before drilling, and pushed a bag needle into the wick to accurately locate the holes. Masking tape is a pain to remove, as it tends to tear the wick a bit. I had some problems with the wick fraying, so I was wondering what people to prevent fraying. PVA glue?

If we as members of the human race practice meditation, we can transcend our fear, despair, and forgetfulness. Meditation is not an escape. It is the courage to look at reality with mindfulness and concentration. Thich Nhat Hanh

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adamrice


adamrice

poo-bah
Location: Austin TX USA

Total posts: 1015
Posted:I use masking tape to tape the wick to the staff at the start (and leave it), and rubber bands to hold the roll in place while I work with it.Yes, it is a PITA getting the screws in. The needle idea's a good one. What I've done is to mark a line on the staff indicating the hole "longitude" and just try to get the "latitude" from memory.

Laugh while you can, monkey-boy

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Chotys


member


Total posts: 91
Posted:Hey,thanks for the advise guys. It is helpful, i think i will use that idea with the pins or needles, i tried using little nails but it kept fraying the wick. Thanks Chillout for your suggestion and i will do that thing with drilling holes and stuff next time i make a staff but the holes were already there so i think i will try just using long pins, put them in the holes and as i wrap the kevlar i'll see if i can put the pins through each layer of kevlar as i wrap it. Wish me luck!:Chotys:

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pj


member
Location: Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Total posts: 277
Posted:Working with kevlar wick is a bitch until you discover the secrets and make the right tools. Then it merely an annoyance. One of the secrets is to have a graduated set of reaming tools, like icepicks, in various sizes. I just took some old screwdrivers and filed them down to a point. You want to drive a hole all the way through the fibers before attempting to put the screw in. Alligning the reamer with the holes can still be tricky, but it is much easier than trying to allign the screw while you are screwing it in. For larger holes, you want to start with a small reamer and then gradually work up to a bigger one.-p.

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Posted:One thing i found really helpful in addition to marking the "longitude line" on the staff is to take a piece of paper (post-it is ideal) and make a template for holes. You just make the line on the paper as well and square the whole thing with the end of the staff and then punch the holes in the paper. Wrap your wick around the staff then lay the template on top of the wick. (make sure you mark which template goes to which end of the staff they aren;t always symetrical)
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When screwing through the kevlar i too push a pilot hole with an awl (basically an ice pick type tool for just this purpose) it makes screwing through the kevlar a lot easier. it also helps you guide the screw in since sometimes you can be a little off with the template placement.As for the masking tape holding the wick in place i recall reading someplace that you can just let it burn off.. not sure if it is the best idea but it seems to work ok and doesn;t pull the wick apart.


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