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PyroMonkeyGOLD Member
b...bal...lence?....
370 posts
Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney, Australia


Posted:
Gday all!!

Im from australia and i love a bit of climbing. anyone else climb??

if so, where abouts? indoor/outdoor? toprope/lead/boulder? Grades? Fav climbs??

Gotta love a good chat about it tongue
Me... i love a good boulder, in or out. Havent done much outdoor toprope or lead but would love to do more.

astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Sounds awesome.... Wish I had the money for a trad rack. frown

Originally Posted By: WoodlandAppleOriginally Posted By: aston

Those are SA grades. 24 is about 6c+. So I am comfortable osighting 6b.

and we all know SA grades are a rip off of Aus grades; just like up to 2 grades difference which is retarded, your grade 24 is like our grade 22.

Ive sport red pointed up to SA grade 27 (sounds way harder than Aus 25!), whih is like 7b
So my plan is to do some epic training this year and be able to push my onsight closer to this mark.

Yeah. Dunno why that is. There is a (short) doable 27 near Grahamstown, but I am just not attracted to it as a climb. Will probably do it at some point, because it is close, but it does not really mean very much.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


WoodlandAppleBRONZE Member
addict
474 posts
Location: Australia


Posted:
Originally Posted By: astonSounds awesome.... Wish I had the money for a trad rack. frown



there are a few tricks that I feel that I can share with you,

THe honest way:
If you have a regular partner who wants to trad too, share the cost and get a rack inbetween 2.
Or just start buying bits and pieces, a set of nuts here, a biner or two there. Soon you will have enough.
Cheap climbing gear is still rated - it doesnt all have to be BD gear. Kong Cams work just as well, OP nuts are like BD nuts but half the price.
Buying from America is really cheap at the moment!

You have to learn how to place gear anyway; which generally means finding a trad climber to learn from; and they will have a rack - repay them with beer and petrol money.

There are some good Ebay deals every now and again for racks; but unless you know a lot about gear I wouldnt buy second hand gear. Also Ebay is where you find a lot of stolen climbing gear being sold; which leads me to the dishonest section.

Dishonest
BOOTY

Not really dishonest as much as sneaky, its when you find gear that has been left in the rock and take that. All you need is a rap rope and a nutkey; a large hex for a hammer (or a rock) Go to a trad area and see if anyone has left any gear.

Tips for Booty finding,
Go after a uni or a club trip, there is always something left. Scan the easy beginner climbs and the ones you know where the gear is tricky.
Go when it rains. You can rap in the rain, most climbers retreat leaving valuable gear behind as booty. Particularly successful with the aforementioned uni and club groups as they are silly enough to leave at least 3 bits of gear in their retreat anchor.

I kid you not; half the nuts on my rack are booty nuts. God bless the bumbly climber!

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.


DurbsBRONZE Member
Classically British
5,689 posts
Location: Epsom, Surrey, England


Posted:
Originally Posted By: MynciOnly Bouldering at the moment.
Durbs - I'm looking to head up to craggy island in Sutton for some bouldring soon and maybe guildford once I've done some rope training, probably with Step, we'll let you know when we're planning on heading up if you like.

Cool cool - let me know. We usually go bouldering on Wednesdays, and try and go routing on the weekend, but let me know when you're coming. There's bouldering at Craggy G but it's not great, certainly not compared to Craggy2.

Oh, and prepare to be spanked on grades, Craggy tend to set them on the stiff side. I onsighted 6c at Shoreham and a 6b+ at Westway, flashing 6a at Craggy is en epic acheivment wink

Burner of Toast
Spinner of poi
Slacker of enormous magnitude


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
I have some experience placing gear, but it is true that I will need to find someone to climb with.

Is cheaper to get through the States here as well. Ah well, maybe once I have a salary. tongue2

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


WoodlandAppleBRONZE Member
addict
474 posts
Location: Australia


Posted:
the weather turned cooler so I went out for a bit of tradding yesterday. I got spanked on a climb I used to run laps on a couple of years ago.

Uni is bad for my climbing life. I need to defer and become a climberbum frown

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Uni is one of the only chances I have to climb.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


WoodlandAppleBRONZE Member
addict
474 posts
Location: Australia


Posted:
I went from being a climbing guide to a student, so my rock time is like 10% of what it used to be frown

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.


WoodlandAppleBRONZE Member
addict
474 posts
Location: Australia


Posted:
funniest thing ever, I just put up my logbook on 8a.nu for shits and giggles.

It ranked my (for Australia) in the top 100 this year, top 200 of all time for routes

and in the top 50 for boulder this year and top 200 of all time.


I call bullshit bigtime. but it did make me feel a little bit good about myself despite me knowing its a wank


EDITED_BY: WoodlandApple (1265439590)
EDIT_REASON: I swore 3 times and it didnt sensor anything?

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
We use 8a.nu for our colours system.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
I hate 8a.nu. Jens is a &^*$(£"%*.

hehe

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Yeah. But since we use a minimum number of points, what that value is does not really make much difference, as long as everyone involved uses the same number of points for a grade. shrug

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
haha it no worries, just that we have a wierd grading system for trad and it doesn't fit into the 8a way of doing things, which Jens takes as an excuse to say British climbers are crap. Its a good system for sport climbers though.

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


DurbsBRONZE Member
Classically British
5,689 posts
Location: Epsom, Surrey, England


Posted:
It's also possibly the slowest and worse designed website out there, but I don't use it so I don't really mind

Time till Font: 8 weeks grin

Burner of Toast
Spinner of poi
Slacker of enormous magnitude


willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
Time till Verdon: 2.5 weeks tongue2

hug

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Yeah. Would not bother if I was doing much trad.

But for what we need it for it is fine.

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


WyattDavisSpinsGOLD Member
WYATTSPINSPOI
69 posts
Location: UTAH, USA


Posted:
ITS ALL ABOUT THE BOULDER !! haha jk.
but im a little more into bouldering.
Utahs got some of the best climbing in the world smile its really quite amazing to see some of the stuff the "pros" climb on as well as some of there new projects
EDITED_BY: WyattDavisSpins (1265727763)

DanKenyonstranger
22 posts
Location: UK and Europe


Posted:
im a climbing instructor grin love it grin

WoodlandAppleBRONZE Member
addict
474 posts
Location: Australia


Posted:
Originally Posted By: WyattDavisSpinsITS ALL ABOUT THE BOULDER !! haha jk.
but im a little more into bouldering.
Utahs got some of the best climbing in the world smile its really quite amazing to see some of the stuff the "pros" climb on as well as some of there new projects

hell yeah, Indian creek is the best place EVER.

sticks and stones my break my bones, but ski patrol will save me.


MynciBRONZE Member
Macaque of all trades
8,738 posts
Location: wombling free..., United Kingdom


Posted:
I'm rather jealous of you people living in warm dry places with good climbing frown

A couple of balls short of a full cascade... or maybe a few cards short of a deck... we'll see how this all fans out.


WyattDavisSpinsGOLD Member
WYATTSPINSPOI
69 posts
Location: UTAH, USA


Posted:
its not to warm or dry hear right now ! haha..everything is covered in snow !!

willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
Somehow I'm not surprised that Honnold got the 2nd ascent...

https://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/2010/02/ambrosia-2nd-ascent-by-alex-honnold.html

Makes my palms a bit clammy

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


WyattDavisSpinsGOLD Member
WYATTSPINSPOI
69 posts
Location: UTAH, USA


Posted:
daaaaamn thats a high ball for sure !! my friend just got back from bishop he got some hella cool clips !

brenonfire413SILVER Member
Fire Spinner Exarch
514 posts
Location: New Orleans, LA United States, USA


Posted:
Same here, have not been on the rocks since October. The ground is either too wet for good grip, it's snowing or I'm working.

"Are you sure it's safe to drink bleach?"
"Yes, bleach is 90% water, we are 90% water, therefore: we are bleach."
-Nathan Explosion, Metalocalypse


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Sea-cliff on trad this weekend.
Probably only top-rope, but hell, it is rock. smile

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
I'm off to the Verdon TOMORROW!!!!!!!!

*dances*

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
frown

Did not get onto the cliffs. *Really* missing rock....

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


bakabombsGOLD Member
stranger
2 posts
Location: USA


Posted:
horshoe canyon in arkansas = amazing. 24 hours of hell this september!

willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
Verdon trip was awesome, a week of climbing in a tshirt. smile

We made an attempt on La Demande but failed unfortunately - my partner took a nasty fall on the second pitch, ripping a cam and falling around 15ft to hit the ledge I was belaying from. He went a bit green after that and had to go back down, I'll be back though, awesome route.

Feels COLD back in England now haha!

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


astonSILVER Member
Unofficial Chairperson of Squirrel Defense League
4,061 posts
Location: South Africa


Posted:
Is he ok at least? Hitting ledges sucks....

'We're all mad here. I'm mad, you're mad." [said the Cat.]
"How do you know I'm mad?" said Alice.
"You must be," said the Cat, "Or you wouldn't have come here."
- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures In Wonderland


willworkforfoodjnrSILVER Member
Hunting robot foxes
1,046 posts
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England (UK)


Posted:
Yeah he's fine, bit bruised but nothing a few drinks didn't fix wink

Working hard to be a wandering hippie layabout. Ten years down, five to go!


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